When to go
Nine miles north-east of Newcastle upon Tyne, this coastal village has a long and proud maritime history. It is well connected to the city by the Metro system, and eases into Whitley Bay to the north and the working fishing port of North Shields to the east, where a landmark transport hub has just opened.
Long Sands Beach is the principal stretch of sand in Tynemouth. Hemmed by gently sloping dunes, the mile-long golden beach gets busy on sunny weekend days and is well-used throughout the year by walkers, bathers and hardy surfers.
Beneath the rocky headland occupied by Tynemouth priory and castle, the neighbouring beach at King Edward’s Bay is the size of a couple of football fields and shielded from the afternoon sun.
Calendar highlights include July’s Mouth of the Tyne music festival and Tynemouth Food Festival in May. The North Sea Weekender series runs until the end of October with live music, markets, beach events and silent discos (facebook.com/NorthSeaWkndr). North Tyneside Restaurant Week takes place from Monday 2 – Sunday 8 October with special set-price menus at many venues. For more, see visitnorthtyneside.com.
How to get there and around
With its village-like vibe, Tynemouth has the feel of a place on the up. It is a 34-minute Metro ride (nexus.org.uk/metro) from Newcastle’s Central Station, and less than 10 minutes to Whitley Bay via Cullercoats; singles £3.25.
Journeys on the Coaster 1 bus (gonortheast.co.uk) take just over an hour and continue to Whitley Bay, £2.
Nearby, North Shields Transport Hub opened earlier this month. The Shields Ferry (£3.70 for a day ticket) crosses the Tyne where you can visit The Word, National Centre for the Written Word in South Shields.
Eastcoast Taxis (eastcoasttaxis.com) is an option for rides in and around Tynemouth, with the 25-minute journey into Newcastle costing around £25.
Where to stay
For a night in a four-poster bed, book the Deluxe room at Tynemouth’s Grand Hotel, which has accessible rooms. Built in 1872 as a summer residence for the Duchess of Northumberland, the Victorian property faces Long Sands Beach. Breakfast is included and Craster kippers, a regional delicacy, are among dishes served in The Brasserie. B&B from £139, grandhoteltynemouth.co.uk.
Tynemouth 61 Guest House & Tea Room has seven cosy bedrooms in a Georgian building on Front Street. A cooked breakfast is included along with the buffet. B&B from £90, no61.co.uk.
Day One
Up with the sun
Enjoy an energising five-mile stroll up the coast to St Mary’s Island, the location of a Victorian lighthouse. Depending on the tide, you may be able to cross the causeway to the rocky island and view grey seals – check in advance.
On the way back through Whitley Bay, stop at the popular Pablo Eggs-Go-Bao (eggsgobao.com) hole in the wall to pick up coffee and a deliciously gooey breakfast in a spongy bao bun.
Souvenir hunting
Tynemouth Market (tynemouthmarkets.com) is held at Tynemouth Station from 9am-3.30pm at weekends. Browse stalls arranged on the Victorian platforms to pick up original artworks depicting local landmarks, antiques and second-hand books. The food stalls make it especially worth visiting for a banger in a bun or a slice of something sweet.
Don’t miss
Tynemouth priory and castle (english-heritage.org.uk) offers commanding views up and down the coastline. With sculpted ceiling bosses, the Percy Chantry is the most intact remainder of medieval premises once belonging to the Abbey of St Albans. Five centuries of military history include gun emplacements used in both world wars.
Appreciate history? Call ahead to arrange a visit to the artefact-packed Tynemouth Volunteer Life Brigade Watch House Museum (tvlb.org) in a wood building still used during search and rescue operations.
Time for a sundowner
Observe the sun sinking over the Tyne from the vast Collingwood Monument, built to honour the Royal Navy officer who commanded the British fleet at Trafalgar after Horatio Nelson’s death. From here, it is a short walk to the Head of Steam (theheadofsteam.co.uk) on Front Street for a choice of real ales and local craft beers.
Dinner reservation
Reserve a deck chair on the beach at King Edward’s Bay to enjoy seafood prepared at Riley’s Fish Shack (rileysfishshack.com). Depending on the locally landed catch, monkfish kebab and barbecued sea trout may be among the dishes cooked within a converted shipping container and then brought to the sand. Dinner is served from 5.30pm-9.30pm (daily, except Tues) and for £10 you can rent a warming firepit.
Day two
Time to relax
Does avoiding dinosaurs during an 18-hole round at Lost World Adventure Golf in Tynemouth Park sound like your way of unwinding (£5, open until end of October)? Alternatively, immerse yourself in the increasingly popular activity of cold-water swimming. Sol’s Cold Water Therapy Group has a sizable Facebook presence and members meet at 9am on Sunday at King Edward’s Bay.
Lunch time
Longsands Fish Kitchen (longsandsfishkitchen.com) offers sit-in and takeaway options, so has you covered whatever the weather. Enhance the excellent battered cod and chips with a dousing of curry sauce or a side of mushy peas. Order a chip stottie to try the North East’s traditional flatbread.
Hit the beach
Scrunch the wet sand of Long Sands Beach between your toes before walking ankle-deep in the invigorating water – known as “plodging” in local dialect. If the thought of spending time in the North Sea appeals, consider joining the surfers. Tynemouth Surf Co offers lessons on weekends into November (from £30, tynemouthsurf.co.uk) and hires out equipment including bodyboards and wetsuits.
A final treat
Navigate away from the seafront to Dibbley’s (dibbleys.com), a gelateria and cocktail bar where you can mull over a multitude of creamy gelato flavours and whether they are best enjoyed in a waffle cone, tub or milkshake.
Alternatively, enjoy a few moments of reflection and sea air by Tynemouth Lighthouse. It stands at the end of a pier that is more than half a mile in length.