The Bear season 2, Disney+, review: Less cooking, more laughs – the new series is an entirely different beast

The Beef is gone and Carmy and Syd are preparing to open their new restaurant. It makes for a hot-blooded, fervent and laugh-out-loud series

The second series of The Bear has a lot riding on it. The first, which arrived on Disney+ three long months after it made waves in the US, earned 13 Emmy nominations last week, including nods for stars Jeremy Allen-White, Ayo Edebiri and Ebon Moss-Bachrach, and an Outstanding Comedy Series nom. Could Christopher Storer’s chef dramedy avoid a sophomore slump?

Bad news for those who were hoping for more of the same from this second instalment: The Bear season two is a different beast, almost a different show altogether. After finding thousands of dollars squirreled away in tins of tomatoes in the series one finale, celebrated chef Carmy (Allen-White) and his sous Syd (Edebiri) are preparing to transform The Beef – the rundown sandwich shop and Chicago institution Carmy’s brother left to him post-suicide – into a high-class fine dining restaurant. Well, the tomato money and a hefty loan from Carmy’s Uncle Cicero (Oliver Platt).

There’s not a lot of kitchen action going on in season two. Instead, the high pressure comes from the impending opening date of the new restaurant called – you guessed it – The Bear. There’s no other option other than for their venture to do well: if they don’t pay Cicero his £500,000 back within 18 months, Carmy has to give him the building.

???THE BEAR??? ??? ???Sundae??? ??? Season 2, Episode 3 (Airs Thursday, June 22nd) Pictured: Jeremy Allen White as Carmen ???Carmy??? Berzatto. CR: Chuck Hodes/FX.
Ebon Moss-Bachrach as Richie Jerimovich and Jeremy Allen White as Carmy Berzatto (Photo: Chuck Hodes/FX)

The entire series is a crescendo building up to the perfect storm of a soft opening – a fun night out for their patrons; life or death for both The Bear and us at home. I never thought I would care so much about a fire suppression test certificate, but episode eight, “Bolognese”, had me holding my breath in anticipation of a lucky break for Carmy and Syd’s restaurant.

The 10 episodes are focused on the preparations, allowing a deeper, more idiosyncratic deep dive into each character. “Honeydew” (directed by Ramy Youseff) follows pastry chef Marcus (Lionel Boyce) to Copenhagen, where he learns the skills needed to turn desserts into high art with the help of chef Luca (Will Poulter). Tina – who has dropped her tough exterior in exchange for a newfound respect for her craft, marked by Carmy’s nickname from “Jeff” to the proper “Jeffrey” – is sent to culinary school where she flourishes, allowing Liza Colón-Zayas to give a charming performance. We spend more time with Carmy’s sister, Sugar (Abby Elliott), who is instrumental in bringing The Bear to life. In a truly out-of-character move, Carmy even gets a girlfriend.

A standout episode, “Forks”, comes just after the halfway mark and follows a newly mellow Richie (Moss-Bachrach) to stage at a three Michelin star restaurant owned by celebrated chef – and friend of Carmy’s – Terry (Olivia Colman). At first, he bristles, typically standoffish, but as he works his way up from polishing forks to serving customers, he finds his groove and his passion for making others happy. For the first time since his best friend died, he has something to live for.

???THE BEAR??? ??? ???Pasta??? ??? Season 2, Episode 2 (Airs Thursday, June 22nd) Pictured: (l-r) Jeremy Allen White as Carmen ???Carmy??? Berzatto, Ayo Ebebiri as Sydney Adamu. CR: Chuck Hodes/FX.
Jeremy Allen White as Carmy Berzatto and Ayo Ebebiri as Sydney Adamu (Photo: Chuck Hodes/FX)

It’s a passionate, fun episode that lifts The Bear from being a heavy (but brilliant) slog to a love letter to not just great food, but the magic of a night out at a restaurant. Moss-Bachrach should expect another Emmy nom next year.

Much has been made of the sixth episode, “Fishes”, which throws us back in time to a chaotic and stressful Berzatto family Christmas, Carmy home from Copenhagen for the first time in months. The guest stars come thick and fast – his mother Donna is played by Jamie Lee Curtis, Bob Odenkirk is her boyfriend, Sarah Paulson is his cousin Michelle, and her boyfriend is played by John Mulaney. The longest episode of the season, it’s almost too intense and shouty to bear, but provides precious context for Carmy’s self-flagellating and destructive behaviour. There is, thankfully, lots of comic relief, even when Michael (Jon Bernthal) dares throw another fork across the room.

The Bear is a hot-blooded, fervent, sometimes punishing drama. It’s also laugh-out-loud funny and full of heart, chock full of characters to root for and food to drool over. “I don’t need to provide amusement or enjoyment,” says Carmy in the final throes of the last episode. Too late.

The Bear season 2 is on Disney+ from Wednesday 19 July.

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