For many of us, one unwanted side effect of the colder weather is the havoc it can wreak upon our skin. A combination of changing environmental factors can make it appear duller, feel more dry and become more sensitive.
“The colder and drier climate leads to increased transepidermal water loss, causing the skin’s outermost layer, the stratum corneum, to lose moisture rapidly,” explains consultant dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto (@anjalimahto), who is based at the Self London clinic. “This weakens the skin’s barrier function, making it more susceptible to dryness, redness and sensitivity.”
In addition, the lower humidity levels in winter can disrupt the skin’s lipid barrier (composed of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids), she explains. “This barrier normally protects against moisture loss and external irritants. In winter it becomes less effective, leaving the skin more vulnerable to damage and irritation. Cold temperatures and harsh winds can further constrict blood vessels in the skin, reducing blood flow, leading to a duller complexion.”
Thankfully, there are a number of small tweaks and affordable product swaps you can make to your skincare routine, which will help to prevent these pesky cold weather symptoms.
Here, Dr Mahto shares how she personally tweaks her skincare as it gets colder – including the things she would never do.
Don’t over-exfoliate
“It can be tempting to over-exfoliate with harsh physical exfoliants, especially if you’re experiencing dryness or flaking, but this can really compromise your skin barrier and lead to a whole host of problems, including increased redness and sensitivity,” Dr Mahto says.
“I limit exfoliation to a gentle routine and adjust the frequency to my skin type. I’ll switch to a chemical exfoliating product that has poly-hydroxy acids (PHAs), rather than alpha-hydroxy (AHAs) or beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs).”
Exfoliating acids help slough off dead skin cells to reveal a brighter, smoother, more even skin tone, but opting for less harsh products during the winter months can be really beneficial for your skin. “PHAs have a larger molecular size and are renowned for being gentler on the skin, so this makes them a great choice.” The INKEY List PHA Toner, £11.49 is even suitable for sensitive skin types.
Don’t skip sunscreen
Yes, you still need to wear it daily in the winter. “UV rays penetrate year-round and their reflection off snow can be particularly intense. I would never skip sunscreen and wear a minimum of broad-spectrum SPF 30 every day of the year. I really like the Heliocare 360 Oil-Free Ge SPF 50 as it offers very high protection and feels great.”
Don’t overuse heaters
“While it’s important to stay warm in the winter, avoid sitting too close to heaters or using heating systems that create a very dry indoor environment. Excessive exposure to dry, heated air can lead to dehydration of the skin, making it more prone to dryness and irritation.”
Don’t forget your hands and feet
“Our hands and feet are particularly prone to dryness and cracking in winter. I like to use a very thick, emollient-rich moisturiser to prevent water loss and wear gloves and socks to keep these areas well-hydrated.”
Don’t ignore professional advice
If you have a skin condition or concern that tends to get worse during the winter, never ignore it, Dr Mahto warns. “Consult with a dermatologist for proper diagnosis and treatment – ignoring skin problems can lead to more serious issues, so seeking professional advice is essential.”
And here are some things she recommends doing.
Do switch to a gentle cleanser
“It can be useful to switch to a much gentler cleanser during the winter months. Cream cleansers are great for this. I like the CeraVe Hydrating Cream to Foam Cleanser, £14. This can help keep the skin barrier healthy, rather than being too aggressive at a time when your skin is more likely to be susceptible to redness and sensitivity.”
Do avoid very hot showers and baths
“I know how tempting it is to have a very hot shower or bath in winter, but it’s not great for your skin and can strip it of its natural oils, which in turn can exacerbate dryness, irritation and sensitivity. Lukewarm water is the better option here to help preserve the skin’s moisture.”
If you really can’t resist the lure of a hot shower when it’s chilly, then at least cleanse your face at the sink before hopping in.
Do seek out the three hero moisturising ingredients
“Humectants, emollients and occlusives are the three moisturising ingredients that the skin needs to be healthy. Look for these in your moisturiser. Examples of humectants include glycerin and hyaluronic acid; emollients include plant oils and shea butter; and occlusives include squalane and lanolin. If you have acne-prone skin, it’s important to ensure you’re still using a moisturiser labelled as ‘non-comedogenic’ to avoid breakouts.”
Do wrap up
Protective clothing isn’t just for the summer months. “When the weather really turns and we have very cold winds and plummeting temperatures, our skin can suffer. Wrap up with scarves, hats and gloves as these act as a physical barrier to help prevent chapping and windburn.”
Do consider in-clinic treatments
“Winter is a fantastic time to have laser treatments and is something I personally do every year. I have a course of Broad Band Light (BBL) and Halo Laser treatments to help with pigmentation, fine lines and overall skin rejuvenation. Winter is the ideal time to do this as the UV rays aren’t as strong as they would be in the summer months.”
These treatments can make your skin more sensitive to UV rays, so it makes sense to try them in winter when your skin is exposed to less sunlight.
Do invest in a lip oil
“Lip cracking and what’s known as angular cheilitis [cracks at the corners of the mouth] is very common during winter so prevention measures are paramount here. Always make sure you have a thick barrier lip balm or oil with you and reapply whenever you go outside into the cold air,” Dr Mahto advises.
Lip oils are the latest beauty buzz, imparting gloss and shine, while delivering long-lasting hydration thanks to a cocktail of nourishing oils. The Charlotte Tilbury Magic Lip Oil, £28, gets her vote.
Do consider humidifying your home
Central heating can dry out indoor air, which can then dry out your skin. “If it’s possible to do so, using a humidifier in your home is a great way to help your skin maintain an optimum level of humidity, preventing it from becoming too dry and itchy.”